Yesterday someone requested that I do a post with instruction on changing a light switch. Light switches are easy. If you found the project of changing an outlet easy, this will be a breeze.
Switches can range from a simple on and off switch to dimmers and timers. AND they can be the only switch that operates a light or fan, or they can be one of a number of switches that operate the same device.
For the purposes of this post we will work with a standard on/off switch.
Remember - ALWAYS turn of the breaker that feeds electricity to the switch before beginning. That being said I have included the following video that will guide you through the process.
If the switch you want to replace is one of two that control the same fixture, there will be an additional wire. Be certain to note which wire is removed from which screw on the old switch and re-attach the wires to the same positions on the new switch. As always, if you have any questions please give us a call.
Saturday, May 15, 2010
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
Caulking 101
I rememer when I first starting to learn how to caulk. I was just a kid. My Dad was a painting contractor and I would go to work with him during the summer when school was out. From time to time he kept me out of his way by giving me some out of the way spot to caulk where no one would see the finished product.
As I got older and struck out on my own, I got a job with some siding installers. I was doing a very bad job at caulking around some windows and the homeowner said "I know everyone has to learn, and everyone has to start somewhere - but would you mind learning on someone elses house?"
From that moment on I knew that I was going to have to master the art.
In order to get serious about caulking, you must have good equipment - and by that I mean a good caulking gun. There are two types available. There is the type on which you must release the tube pressure when you stop, and then there is the "dripless" caulk gun. I prefer the latter. There is nothing more frustrating than laying down a nice bead of caulk only to have the tube keep spewing out gobs of caulk when you stop.
Once you chosen a good gun, you must choose he right caulk for the job. For tubs, a good silicone bathroom caulk is a good choice. For windows a good elastomeric or latex, siliconized paintable caulk for the interior and a urethane caulk for the exterior is the way to go. Keep this in mind - with caulk you get what you pay for.
The surface your about to caulk must be clean and dry. The smoother and cleaner the surface, the better the end result will be. Now - down to business.
Install the tube in the gun and cut a small angle on the plastic tip. For some applications cut from the very tip to make a small bead. For larger gaps, cut further down the tip for a larger bead. With urethane caulk you will have to insert a poker down the tip to break the membrane to allow the caulk to come out. With the latex caulk you won't have to do that.
Start at one end of the seam to be caulked. Place the tip into the corner at a slight angle with the opening facing in the direction you're tip will travel and gently squeeze the handle. When the caulk begins to come out, gently and with slow, constant speed, move the tip toward the end of the line you're cauking. The goal is to squeeze out just enough caulk to fill the gap completely, but only enough that you can smooth with the angled tip as you are squeezing it out. Don't stop moving the tube until the caulk has stopped coming out of the tip. It sounds complicated but it isn't. One rule of thumb. Regardless of what these vidoes that follow tell you - keep your fingers out of the caulk as much as possible. One video makes it appear as though smooting the bead with your finger is part of the process - but it isn't. Not unless you have to.. If it's not as neat as you would like it, go back and trim it with a Stanley knife after it dries.
There are some circumstances when you can't avoid it but do what you can to keep your fingers out. Once you put your fingers in the caulk be certain to have PLENTY of rags.
I would really welcome the opportunity to personally show you how to do it but the following videos should suffice. If you still have questions or difficulties, give me a call and I'll try to walk you through it. If it's something you don't think you want to get involved in, give me a call and I'll give you a free estimate.
As I got older and struck out on my own, I got a job with some siding installers. I was doing a very bad job at caulking around some windows and the homeowner said "I know everyone has to learn, and everyone has to start somewhere - but would you mind learning on someone elses house?"
From that moment on I knew that I was going to have to master the art.
In order to get serious about caulking, you must have good equipment - and by that I mean a good caulking gun. There are two types available. There is the type on which you must release the tube pressure when you stop, and then there is the "dripless" caulk gun. I prefer the latter. There is nothing more frustrating than laying down a nice bead of caulk only to have the tube keep spewing out gobs of caulk when you stop.
Once you chosen a good gun, you must choose he right caulk for the job. For tubs, a good silicone bathroom caulk is a good choice. For windows a good elastomeric or latex, siliconized paintable caulk for the interior and a urethane caulk for the exterior is the way to go. Keep this in mind - with caulk you get what you pay for.
The surface your about to caulk must be clean and dry. The smoother and cleaner the surface, the better the end result will be. Now - down to business.
Install the tube in the gun and cut a small angle on the plastic tip. For some applications cut from the very tip to make a small bead. For larger gaps, cut further down the tip for a larger bead. With urethane caulk you will have to insert a poker down the tip to break the membrane to allow the caulk to come out. With the latex caulk you won't have to do that.
Start at one end of the seam to be caulked. Place the tip into the corner at a slight angle with the opening facing in the direction you're tip will travel and gently squeeze the handle. When the caulk begins to come out, gently and with slow, constant speed, move the tip toward the end of the line you're cauking. The goal is to squeeze out just enough caulk to fill the gap completely, but only enough that you can smooth with the angled tip as you are squeezing it out. Don't stop moving the tube until the caulk has stopped coming out of the tip. It sounds complicated but it isn't. One rule of thumb. Regardless of what these vidoes that follow tell you - keep your fingers out of the caulk as much as possible. One video makes it appear as though smooting the bead with your finger is part of the process - but it isn't. Not unless you have to.. If it's not as neat as you would like it, go back and trim it with a Stanley knife after it dries.
There are some circumstances when you can't avoid it but do what you can to keep your fingers out. Once you put your fingers in the caulk be certain to have PLENTY of rags.
I would really welcome the opportunity to personally show you how to do it but the following videos should suffice. If you still have questions or difficulties, give me a call and I'll try to walk you through it. If it's something you don't think you want to get involved in, give me a call and I'll give you a free estimate.
Hanging heavy items on drywall/gypsum walls
Someone recently requested information on hanging heavy items on interior walls. Good question! There are two ways to do this. The way you choose to go will depend on two things. The first will be the weight of the object to be hung and the second will be the location.
If the weight can be supported by just drywall anchors you can go to your local home improvement store and pick up some really great hangers with really aggressive threads that screw into the drywall. They come in different sizes depending on the weight of the item to be hung. Often the weight can be divided among two or more anchors. These anchors, however, do have their limitations. These weight limits are clearly marked on the packaging. Please DO NOT exceed the weight rating. There are also many different types of hanging devices available such as toggle bolts, etc., and there are different types of wall material such as old horse hair plaster. It's important to match the type of anchor to the type of wall and the weight of the object to be hung.
If the item to be hung is too great for anchors than we have to find studs (verticle structural framing members located in the wall beneath the drywall) and fasten hangers through the drywall into these studs. These studs are most likely placed 16 inches apart center to center, and are mostly 2"x4" of 2"x6". While this is the strongest method by which to hang anything on your walls, they are often not located exaclty where you want them to be. You can locate these studs by tapping on the wall to find the solid areas behind the drywall or you can use a stud finder.
Below is a video that can give you a better idea of what I'm talking about. If you have any questions don't hesitate to give me a call.
If the weight can be supported by just drywall anchors you can go to your local home improvement store and pick up some really great hangers with really aggressive threads that screw into the drywall. They come in different sizes depending on the weight of the item to be hung. Often the weight can be divided among two or more anchors. These anchors, however, do have their limitations. These weight limits are clearly marked on the packaging. Please DO NOT exceed the weight rating. There are also many different types of hanging devices available such as toggle bolts, etc., and there are different types of wall material such as old horse hair plaster. It's important to match the type of anchor to the type of wall and the weight of the object to be hung.
If the item to be hung is too great for anchors than we have to find studs (verticle structural framing members located in the wall beneath the drywall) and fasten hangers through the drywall into these studs. These studs are most likely placed 16 inches apart center to center, and are mostly 2"x4" of 2"x6". While this is the strongest method by which to hang anything on your walls, they are often not located exaclty where you want them to be. You can locate these studs by tapping on the wall to find the solid areas behind the drywall or you can use a stud finder.
Below is a video that can give you a better idea of what I'm talking about. If you have any questions don't hesitate to give me a call.
Saturday, May 1, 2010
Installing a ceiling fan
Changing or adding a ceiling fan can dramatically change the character of a room. For some, the thought of taking on such a task can be frightening. Fear not! If there is electricity already running to a fixture in the center of the ceiling, almost anyone can do it. The video below can help you convert that drab old room into a room where you long to spend some after dinner time with a book or a nap on a Sunday afternoon.
Any questions? Give us a call!
Sunday, April 18, 2010
Replacing an Electrical outlet
Replacing an electrical outlet is an easy undertaking with a basic understanding of how residential electricity works.
In a basic residential wiring circuit, a black (hot) wire comes out of a breaker in the electiric panel and runs to the outlet.
A white wire (neutral) runs from the elecrical outlet back to the ground bar in the electric panel.
There is also an uninsulated wire - just copper with no plastic insulation - that runs from the green screw on the frame of the outlet back to the same grounding bar in the electric panel.
These three wires run together in a larger plastic sleeve. This sleeve can be one of several colors but the most common colors for a basic residential outlet is white or yellow
Electricity leaves the panel through the black wire runs to the outlet. When an appliance or light is plugged into the outlet, the electricity leaves the outlet via the prong of the plug which corresponds with the black wire. It then travels through the appliance or light. When the appliance or light is turned on, the electricity travels through it and returns to the outlet to the prong which corresponds to the white wire and back to the electric panel. Pretty basic.
Sometimes electric outlets wear out due to frequent plugging and unplugging of appliances. Sometimes they burn out due to plugging in an appliance that draws more amps than the outlet is designed to handle. Either will require the outlet to be changed.
BEFORE CHANGING ANY OUTLET DETERMINE WHAT BREAKER IN THE ELECTRIC PANEL SUPPLIES POWER TO THAT OUTLET AND TURN THAT BREAKER OFF. TEST IT WITH AN INEXPENSIVE TEST LIGHT TO ASSURE THE FLOW OF POWER HAS BEEN INTERRUPTED!!!
Rather than explain how to change an outlet, I've included yet another video which is sure to keep your attenton span from expiring. :)
In a basic residential wiring circuit, a black (hot) wire comes out of a breaker in the electiric panel and runs to the outlet.
A white wire (neutral) runs from the elecrical outlet back to the ground bar in the electric panel.
There is also an uninsulated wire - just copper with no plastic insulation - that runs from the green screw on the frame of the outlet back to the same grounding bar in the electric panel.
These three wires run together in a larger plastic sleeve. This sleeve can be one of several colors but the most common colors for a basic residential outlet is white or yellow
Electricity leaves the panel through the black wire runs to the outlet. When an appliance or light is plugged into the outlet, the electricity leaves the outlet via the prong of the plug which corresponds with the black wire. It then travels through the appliance or light. When the appliance or light is turned on, the electricity travels through it and returns to the outlet to the prong which corresponds to the white wire and back to the electric panel. Pretty basic.
Sometimes electric outlets wear out due to frequent plugging and unplugging of appliances. Sometimes they burn out due to plugging in an appliance that draws more amps than the outlet is designed to handle. Either will require the outlet to be changed.
BEFORE CHANGING ANY OUTLET DETERMINE WHAT BREAKER IN THE ELECTRIC PANEL SUPPLIES POWER TO THAT OUTLET AND TURN THAT BREAKER OFF. TEST IT WITH AN INEXPENSIVE TEST LIGHT TO ASSURE THE FLOW OF POWER HAS BEEN INTERRUPTED!!!
Rather than explain how to change an outlet, I've included yet another video which is sure to keep your attenton span from expiring. :)
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Installing a Sump Pump
This winter brought us a LOT of precipitation. So much, in fact, that the ground is completely saturated and any more precip must be run-off. This has presented problems that many of us have never experienced. Water in basements and crawl spaces. This is a direct result of high water tables and is a problem for several reasons. First, those of us who have basements often store seasonal items there. Water, often a foot or more deep, will ruin stored items. Water will cause mildew to grow on floor joists and other framing members. This mildew will digest the cellulose in wood eliminating its strenth causing structural damage to your home. Water will also create an environment in which toxic black mold will thrive - all very good reasons to take the necessary steps to remove it immediately and permanently from under your house.
In light of this we will cover the installation of a sump pump in order to pump this water out.
First, we're going to choose a pump. Pumps vary in horsepower and voltage, as well as how far it will pump water up hill, or "head". For example a pume in a basement will have to pump water up hill to get it outside. A pump in a crawlspace will only have to pump it vertically. This video will give you an idea of what pump you will need.
Next we will need to dig a hole beneath the lowest horizontal surface - the floor of the basement or the dirt bottom of the crawlspace. You can buy many different sizes of plastic sumps to accomodate many different applications. A plastic sump is a small plastic "drum" with a removable top. This drum will have holes drilled in the sides (or you may have to drill your own) and it is placed into the hole you dig. The sump should be at or slightly above level with the surface when placed into the hole. The hole should be a larger diameter than the sump so that you can add stone or gravel around it to keep dirt from getting into the holes in the side of the sump.
Once the hole is dug, the sump is place into the hole, and the gravel is placed around the outside of the sump, it's time to place the pump into the sump. Locate the pump in the sump so that the float is free to move up and down as the water level changes without hitting the side of the sump. this is important if you want the pump to work properly. Once the pump is properly place into the sump, it's time to install the plumbing necessary to get the water out of the basement or crawlspace. The most common drain line used is 1 1/2 inch PVC drain line. Follow the instructions that come with the pump and always use a check valve to make sure a portion of the water you pump out doesn't drain back into the sump after the pump shuts off. Here is another video to give you an idea of how a good system should look. It shows all the components even though this may not be your specific situation - you may have a crawl space installation which will look different but the components will be the same.
Providing an exit for your drain line will be different depending on your circumstance. The most common way is to bore a hole through the foundation wall, slide the pipe through, and seal it with mortar. I have, however, seen these drain lines tied into the public sewer system.
It should be noted that in basements with concrete floors it will be necessary to break through the concrete. This can be done by using a circular saw with a masonry blade or a small jack hammer (and a HEPA respirator with safety glasses).
This is a relatively complex project and should only be attempted by those with a fair degree of mechanical ability.
In light of this we will cover the installation of a sump pump in order to pump this water out.
First, we're going to choose a pump. Pumps vary in horsepower and voltage, as well as how far it will pump water up hill, or "head". For example a pume in a basement will have to pump water up hill to get it outside. A pump in a crawlspace will only have to pump it vertically. This video will give you an idea of what pump you will need.
Next we will need to dig a hole beneath the lowest horizontal surface - the floor of the basement or the dirt bottom of the crawlspace. You can buy many different sizes of plastic sumps to accomodate many different applications. A plastic sump is a small plastic "drum" with a removable top. This drum will have holes drilled in the sides (or you may have to drill your own) and it is placed into the hole you dig. The sump should be at or slightly above level with the surface when placed into the hole. The hole should be a larger diameter than the sump so that you can add stone or gravel around it to keep dirt from getting into the holes in the side of the sump.
Once the hole is dug, the sump is place into the hole, and the gravel is placed around the outside of the sump, it's time to place the pump into the sump. Locate the pump in the sump so that the float is free to move up and down as the water level changes without hitting the side of the sump. this is important if you want the pump to work properly. Once the pump is properly place into the sump, it's time to install the plumbing necessary to get the water out of the basement or crawlspace. The most common drain line used is 1 1/2 inch PVC drain line. Follow the instructions that come with the pump and always use a check valve to make sure a portion of the water you pump out doesn't drain back into the sump after the pump shuts off. Here is another video to give you an idea of how a good system should look. It shows all the components even though this may not be your specific situation - you may have a crawl space installation which will look different but the components will be the same.
Providing an exit for your drain line will be different depending on your circumstance. The most common way is to bore a hole through the foundation wall, slide the pipe through, and seal it with mortar. I have, however, seen these drain lines tied into the public sewer system.
It should be noted that in basements with concrete floors it will be necessary to break through the concrete. This can be done by using a circular saw with a masonry blade or a small jack hammer (and a HEPA respirator with safety glasses).
This is a relatively complex project and should only be attempted by those with a fair degree of mechanical ability.
Friday, February 5, 2010
Keeping Your Home Energy Efficient
It's been a while since our last post. Keeping a blog running requires a lot of time and effort. But the show must go on.
In light of the recent cold weather, I thought it would be appropriate to address issue that matters most to many homeowners - energy efficiency. When the weather is extremely cold, we tend to notice how inefficiently our homes really keep the heat in. While we may feel a draft here and there, it never strikes us as hard as when we receive the bills. For some, a $100.00 electric bill can quickly become $800.00 when the weather gets cold.
In this segment, we'll address the issue of adequate insulation in our ceilings.
Depending on the age of you home, you may have ceilings R-30, R-19, or R-13 fiberglass batt insulation, you may have blown insulation, or you may have none at all. If you have none at all, it will save you money in the long run to install insullation. You may elect to do it yourself or to have a professional install it for you.
Attics or upper crawl spaces without flooring are the easiest and arguably the most important for keeping heat in your home due to the fact theat heat rises.
This video will show you how to install fiberglass batts in an attic with no flooring.
This video shows blown cellulose being installed.
Either way you go, the finished product should provide an insulation rating of at least R-35 in attics.
Next time we'll address insulating walls.
In light of the recent cold weather, I thought it would be appropriate to address issue that matters most to many homeowners - energy efficiency. When the weather is extremely cold, we tend to notice how inefficiently our homes really keep the heat in. While we may feel a draft here and there, it never strikes us as hard as when we receive the bills. For some, a $100.00 electric bill can quickly become $800.00 when the weather gets cold.
In this segment, we'll address the issue of adequate insulation in our ceilings.
Depending on the age of you home, you may have ceilings R-30, R-19, or R-13 fiberglass batt insulation, you may have blown insulation, or you may have none at all. If you have none at all, it will save you money in the long run to install insullation. You may elect to do it yourself or to have a professional install it for you.
Attics or upper crawl spaces without flooring are the easiest and arguably the most important for keeping heat in your home due to the fact theat heat rises.
This video will show you how to install fiberglass batts in an attic with no flooring.
This video shows blown cellulose being installed.
Either way you go, the finished product should provide an insulation rating of at least R-35 in attics.
Next time we'll address insulating walls.
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